Tipping? Yes? No?

The endless debate over tipping and its attendant issues got a new wrinkle this week when New York restaurant owner Danny Meyer announced that he will transition to a no-tipping policy at his NYC restaurants.

HERE is the story as reported by eater.com.

Also this week, a restaurant owner in San Francisco who instituted a no-tipping policy ten months ago changed his mind and is going back to allowing customers to tip his wait staff. HERE is that story as reported by Michael Bauer in the San Francisco Chronicle.

Today’s Post-Dispatch has Ian Froeb’s front page article with several local restaurant owners chiming in on tipping. HERE is that story.

Here are a few thoughts on the matter…

Who benefits from a no-tipping policy?

The staff? Yes, sort of. The cooks will get more money. The servers, probably a bit less. The “hospitality included” upcharge prevents an unhappy diner from stiffing the service team. (An hourly wage means a server would get the same amount for a slow Tuesday night in January as for a bustling Saturday night in May. Although, if it’s really slow on that Tuesday night, he may be sent home early.)

The diner? Sure, he/she pays a higher menu price but now there’s no need to worry about doing the math to figure out 15%, 18% or 20% of the bill. Will service be just as good when the server knows he/she is being paid for simply doing the job, NOT because of how well or poorly he/she does it? That’s the big IF.

The restaurant owner? Certainly the bookkeeper will have an easier time reporting wages and deducting tax payments. The restaurant owner may be able to pay kitchen staff better. It may be a challenge to keep the wait staff happy, as the SF restaurant owner learned.

Could ANY restaurant, anywhere make this work in 2015?

Well, Danny Meyer’s places can. They’re in New York City which has a large dining population. Plus, his restaurants are established places with regular customers.

Certain upscale restaurants in towns like St. Louis might be able to make it fly. But older diners who prefer that changes come slowly may not be on board with such a radical switch.

Restaurants that cater to a budget crowd should avoid climbing aboard the no-tipping wave in its early stages. I can’t imagine that most Red Lobster customers would prefer a 20% price increase over choosing the amount of tip to leave.

Some other things to consider…

Is it so wrong that servers earn considerably more than cooks? The cooks endure burns, cuts and other hazards. But the argument could be made that the wait staff is more creative. They’re the ones who creatively upsell a table a 150 dollar bottle of wine. While the chef may be a creative genius, a line cook is charged with making most dishes the same way every time. (At some of the radio stations I worked at, the jocks—including me—drove older subcompacts while the sales men and women earned more and drove new luxury vehicles. Was this unfair? Maybe, but that’s just the way it was.)

Of course, the success of the servers is a direct result of the job being done in the kitchen. If food comes out slow, it’s often the server who gets the blame. If the meal is perfect because of the kitchen crew, the server may get the love in the the form of a bigger tip.

A older couple earning 300K/year pays the same for a dish at a tipping-banned restaurant as a young couple earning 46K/year. In a tipping-permitted situation, you might expect the higher earners to leave a significantly bigger gratuity. (Although most servers can tell you that’s not always the case. The rich can be cheapskates and the not-rich can be generous.)

What about the diner who wants to reward a special effort by a tip-free server? Does he surreptitiously slip the man or woman some cash? (My daughter works at a Starbucks where tips are pooled. She has received special personal gifts from regulars including cash, gift cards, toys for her cat and, from a shoe salesman, a pair of boots.)

Many servers like this aspect of the gig: you take money home every night! In a non-tipping Danny Meyer world, servers would presumably only take money home on payday and EVERY CENT would be reported income.

There will be bumps in the road to be sure. And we will continue to debate the pros and cons of tipping. But Danny Meyer’s move may be the first shot in what could become a revolution. Will it work? As they often say at the end of TV news reports, only time will tell.

The Gilded Table: Recipes and Table History from the Campbell House

Gilded coverThe Gilded Table, Recipes and Table History from the Campbell House is a new cookbook, filled with 178 recipes from the 19th century. It is also a book filled with history, including the story of prominent St. Louis couple Robert and Virginia Campbell who moved into the house in 1854. Among their dinner guests were Ulysses S. Grant and William Tecumseh Sherman.

photo-436Suzanne Corbett (shown above with “General Grant”) is the author of The Gilded Table. She spent several years organizing and testing Virginia Campbell’s recipes which are reproduced in the book.

I spoke to Suzanne about the project in 2012 on the Food Talk STL radio show and chatted with her recently at an event at River City Casino. Here’s that conversation, which runs just over 4 minutes:

The Gilded Table features photos by Jim Corbett III of many of the food items as well as Campbell family furnishings and dishware, including china, crystal and sterling.

Campbell House ChickenThe Gilded Table is available at the Campbell House Museum for 32.95. The Campbell House is located at 1508 Locust in St. Louis.

missouri-st-louis-campbell-house-museumThe Campbell House is open to visitors from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays and noon to 4:00 p.m. on Sundays. Cost is 8.00/person. For more info, click HERE to go to the Campbell House website.

New Tech: OPER

Order. Pay. Earn. Redeem. That’s what it stands for.

OperOPER is a new St. Louis-based app that lets you set up an account, add money and pay at several area restaurants. Along with convenience, OPER gives users a 5% reward for each dollar spent via OPER.

It allows for mobile ordering and payment at restaurants that feature carryout and delivery.

Among the participating restaurants are Herbie’s Vintage ’72, The Libertine, The Fountain on Locust, Blueberry Hill, Kirkwood Station, Atomic Cowboy, Lucas Park Grille, Molly’s in Soulard, Chris’ Pancakes, Kemoll’s, Evangeline’s and Favazza’s.

Spots like Piccione Pastry, Vincent Van Doughnut, Stone Spiral Coffee and Ices Plain and Fancy are on the OPER list.

OPER_LOGO_NEWPartners David Laiderman and Scott Hunley plan to take OPER beyond St. Louis. Laiderman says, “It was an easy decision to develop and grow OPER in St. Louis before rolling it out in other key market areas..”

The app should be available soon for iPhone and Android. You can learn more about OPER and sign up for notifications about the app’s launch by clicking HERE.

More Oktoberfesting

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If you can handle a 34-ounce stein full of beer, head over to the Budweiser Brew House (Haus?) Saturday, October 3, noon-10:00 p.m. for Oktoberfest. (That’s at Ballpark Village in downtown St. Louis.)

This is a FREE event with activities inside the Beer Hall and outside in the Beer Garden. The Bolzen Beer Band will play festive music!

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Come thirsty, of course. Come hungry, too. Among the menu items being offered Saturday (and all through the month of October) are:

  • German style salted pretzels with signature beer mustards.
  • Drunken Rib Eye—Budweiser marinated 16-ounce bone-in rib eye served with sauerkraut mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus.
  • Sausage platter including bratwurst, knockwurst and Hungarian sausages served with sauerkraut mashed potatoes, braised red cabbage, accompanied with Amber Bock mustard and Budweiser beer mustard.
  • Jaegerschnitzel—Breaded pork loin ladled with demi-glace and served with braised red cabbage, and sauerkraut mashed potatoes.

A 34-ounce glass Spaten beer stein will be available for purchase for $15 with $10 refills. Prost!

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A Bad Review Can Be A Good Thing

Earlier this month both the St. Louis Post-Dispatch and the Riverfront Times reviewed a recently opened suburban restaurant/bar. Each review, posted within a couple of days of each other, was generally negative. But there are upsides to these reviews!

  1. Readers are now aware that a new restaurant/bar is open in a space where another restaurant had been located for many years. The descriptions of what’s happening now in the space may attract new diners.
  2. Photos accompanying reviews often present a more positive example of the restaurant that the words do.
  3. The simple fact that the professional reviewers felt they should share their opinions with readers indicates that the restaurant is worth a full review.
  4. Each reviewer found a few things to like about the food, the drinks, the décor and the staff.
  5. Constructive criticism can be useful to a restaurant owner/manager. He/she can evaluate what was written, determine if it is valid and, if appropriate, remedy the shortcomings.
  6. Negative online postings on media websites can elicit comments from friends and partisans of the restaurant who may share their own positive thoughts about the place.
  7. If the restaurant had been a complete and total mess, the publications would likely have not run reviews. In such a case, the presumption is the place will not survive long, so why bother? (Remember: these media outlets exist to sell advertising. If they trash a restaurant mercilessly, the industry may avoid placing ads with the outlet.)
  8. Not all who read these reviews accept them at face value. Some folks put more stock in user reviews on Yelp, OpenTable, etc.
  9. A relationship has been established with the media outlet. When the restaurant has a new menu, special event, major new hire, etc., the outlet may be more likely to give notice to the news.
  10. If handled correctly, these reviews can be used to motivate staff to deliver better performance and to create a better team spirit.

I’m not always a “silver linings” guy, but I encourage everyone in the local food and beverage scene to work to make the “less than positive” feedback you receive into something useful.

Art At The Table—Distilled Dinners at Panorama

Cool event Friday night, September 25, at Panorama at the St. Louis Art Museum!

Panorama pic

It begins with a tour of the galleries at 7:00 p.m. followed by dinner at 7:30 p.m prepared by executive chef Ivy Magruder (pictured below) and his Panorama team.

Ivy on TV

Specialty cocktails from Pinckney Bend Distillery will be featured.

home_slider_cask_ginCost is 65/person plus tax and tip. Garage parking included. To make a reservation, call 314-655-5490.

Here’s the food and beverage menu:

Course 1
Soup and Salad
Mesclun Salad, with local goat cheese, maple-glazed pecans,
honeycrisp apples, and maple-Dijon vinaigrette

Chilled Corn Bisque

Keith’s Spiked Cider,
American Corn Whiskey

Course 2
Salt Cod Fritters with assorted aiolis
Smoked Three-Grain Vodka
“Screwdriver”

Course 3
Rabbit Cacciatore with cracked black pepper pappardelle
Boulevardier,
Rested American Whiskey

Course 4
Gin and Tonic Cake
The Perfect Gin and Tonic

Saint Louis

A-B Oktoberfest September 25-26-27

German beer will flow at Anheuser-Busch in St. Louis when Oktoberfest happens September 25, 26 and 27!

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The event kicks off Friday evening with a ceremonial tapping of the first keg of Spaten, a traditional Oktoberfest brew, by Mayor Francis Slay. Actually, the keg tap follows a wedding—a nice touch, since the Munich Oktoberfest grew from a wedding celebration in 1810. (Beer was introduced in 1818 and the event has grown over the last two centuries to a 17-day annual event that draws six million visitors each autumn.)

The A-B Oktoberfest will feature German-style beers and food (bratwursts, pretzels, gingerbread cookies, etc.). Authentic German music and entertainment will be offered all weekend.

default-heroHours for the Oktoberfest are Friday, September 25, 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.; Saturday, September 26, 1:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.; Sunday, September 27, noon to 5:00 p.m.

home-heroAdult tickets are available for 30/person and may be purchased by clicking HERE. Your ticket gets you a commemorative Oktoberfest beer stein, two beers and one food item. Additional beer, food and soft drinks will be available for purchase. (This is an all-ages event. Tickets for ages 4-20 are 10/person. That admission includes a soft drink and one food item.)

There is free parking in and around the A-B Biergarten located at 12th and Lynch in St. Louis.

Lederhosen optional, FYI.

Sammy Hagar Won’t Be There, But…

Cantina Laredo, the new Mexican restaurant in Clayton, is hosting a Tequila Dinner on Wednesday, September 16, 7:00 p.m. The dinner will feature four Cabo Wabo tequilas paired with a multi-course off-the-menu lineup of dishes created by executive chef Sean Scott. Cost is 49.99 per person.

Cabo tequila

Here’s what’s being served:

  • Chicharron de queso chalupa featuring crisp cheese, avocado with salsa mortajada as the first course.

  • A watermelon salad made featuring jicama, watermelon, strawberries, and lime as the next course.

  • The third course will be the guestschoice of:

    Filet Tampiqueno a 7 oz. filet with crimini mushrooms, as well as roasted garlic potatoes with queso fresco

    Banana leaf wrapped halibut with artichokes, grape tomatoes and cilantro rice

  • A flavorful coconut pecan ice cream with cajeta (sweet) sauce will be the final course

A Cabo Wabo representative will be on hand to talk about the tequilas, but, alas, it will not be Sammy Hagar. Although the Red Rocker is closely associated with the Cabo Wabo brand, he sold off his ownership in the company a few years back.

Also, Hagar will be in New York that day, promoting his “lifestyle cookbook” Are We Having Any Fun Yet? He is scheduled to be on ABC-TV’s The View Wednesday. He is scheduled to sign his book at Left Bank Books in the CWE this Friday, September 18, at 4:00 p.m.

Cantina LaredoCantina Laredo, which opened back in winter, is located at 7710 Forsyth in Clayton. To reserve your spot at this Tequila Dinner, call 314-725-2447. Click HERE to go to Cantina Laredo’s website.

The Vortex in Atlanta

My younger son visited Atlanta for Dragoncon this past weekend and enjoyed a burger at The Vortex on Peachtree Street in midtown Atlanta.

No, he did not have the Triple Coronary Bypass, but he did show me that item on the menu.

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That’s right, it uses grilled-cheese sandwiches for buns!

Triple bypass

My son had a more modest burger. He also showed me his receipt which had an interesting message at the bottom:

Karma

I’ve seen restaurants do the math for you, so you can determine the tip amount you might like to leave. But I’ve never seen the words “Tip or DIE” on a receipt.

By the way, my son loveed his burger.

Click HERE to visit The Vortex’s website. (Click on Vortex Radio to listen to their weekly podcast!)

Nora Ephron on Desserts and Dessert Spoons

I was rereading Nora Ephron’s book I Remember Nothing and came across this nugget based on her perception that modern restaurants serve desserts with bigger spoons:

“Here’s the thing about dessert—you want it to last. You want to savor it. Dessert is so delicious. It’s so sweet. It’s so bad for you so much of the time. And, as with all bad things, you want it to last as long as possible. But you can’t make it last if they give you a great big spoon to eat it with. You’ll gobble up your dessert in two big gulps. Then it will be gone. And the meal will be over.

Why don’t they get this? It’s so obvious.

It’s so obvious.”

To read her full essay on dining as it appeared in the New York Times in September 2006, click HERE.

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