Be Ready When The Luck Happens

If you’re familiar with Ina Garten it’s most likely because of her cookbooks or her TV appearances. Or maybe both. In her new memoir Be Ready When The Luck Happens, Garten writes about authoring those cookbooks and doing TV work. 

In both cases, she had some trepidation at first, but soon was cruising along successfully in each of those endeavors. She mentions in the memoir that The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook (her first) has sold 1.4 million copies and, 25 years after its initial publication, is still selling.

Her cookbooks and her TV work brought her fame, but there are other stories in her new book that I found more compelling than the details of her leap into the national limelight.

She and her husband Jeffrey had four months in the spring and summer of 1972 with no obligations. And no place to stay. And not very much money. So they spent those four months camping across Europe. With guidance from the book Europe on Five Dollars a Day, they slept in an orange tent at modest campgrounds. They had the opportunity to sample foods and markets unlike those they had experienced in the U.S. The absolute freedom to do anything and go anywhere while they were still in their 20s makes for a fascinating chapter.

While she was working in a government job in Washington later that decade, Garten saw an ad for a gourmet foods and cheese shop for sale in Westhampton NY on the east end of Long Island. Despite her lack of culinary experience, she made an offer. It was accepted. And soon she was in business with a steep learning curve ahead. Her tales of taking this huge step, addressing the challenges and making it all work out are filled with instances of serendipity as well as moments of panic and despair. 

Many years later, after reaping the rewards the cookbooks and TV work provided, Garten was able to purchase an apartment in Paris. Not as easy as it sounds. But she put significant efforts into finding the right spot for her and her husband and then into furnishing and decorating it. It’s something most of us can only dream about but it’s fun to enjoy a vicarious thrill along with Ina.

At age 76, she has enjoyed an amazing life. But her story has its dark moments, too. She mentions her unhappy childhood many times in this new book. She also writes about the period in the late 1970s when she and her husband separated for several months. Even during the years when they have been together, they were often apart because of military and work obligations. 

One thing I missed in this new book was a section of ten or twelve glossy pages with dozens of photos like those often seen in bios/memoirs. There are photos in the book but they are on the same paper as the text.

And the famous person who was the source of that nugget of advice which became the title Be Ready When The Luck Happens? Well, it’s there in the book!

Remembering Bill Kunz

In May 2022 when I heard that Bill Kunz had sold Highway 61 Roadhouse in Webster Groves I texted him congratulations. He replied, “Thank you. It’s a great feeling.”

He did take some time to travel a bit but in 2023 he was back in the game, helping guide the Trainwreck Saloons. And not long ago he came back to the Roadhouse. 

Sadly, Bill suffered a fatal heart attack last Wednesday, July 17. He was 64.

I met Bill when he came on my Food Talk STL radio show on KFNS in the summer of 2012. He was promoting the S.L.O.B.S. barbecue competition. (St. Louis Occasional Barbecue Society.) Then in December he talked about having the Roadhouse featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives with Guy Fieri. 

The Triple-D segment featuring the Roadhouse first ran in December 2012 and resulted in a significant increase in traffic. And every time the segment ran again in succeeding months and years, more folks came in. 

Around that time, Bill had stomach surgery to limit his food intake and he went from being obese to being a slim guy. He went hard on cycling and got back on his bicycle after hitting an unseen curb out by Spirit airport in 2017 and suffering a significant injury. In 2020, he rode over 10,000 miles.

In 2013 I did PR work to promote the Roadhouse and in 2014 I worked to promote the S.L.O.B.S. series of events. Several TV and radio appearances were set up, mainly because of the events Bill staged at the Roadhouse. The Cigar Box Guitar Festival was not set up by Bill but he was happy to provide the venue for the folks who pulled it off. 

Bill also did the Freeze-Que, a wintertime BBQ competition, the “Halfway to Mardi Gras” celebrations in September, a screening of the movie Roadhouse on Patrick Swayze’s birthday and a huge crawfish boil. He put a strong emphasis on live music at the Roadhouse.

Bill was a warm and witty guy who obviously enjoyed the food and beverage world. He was collegial with other restaurant and bar people as well as customers. My favorite visits with him came when I would dine at the Roadhouse on a quiet mid-afternoon and he would often just sit and chat for a while.

I managed to hold back my tears when I attended his visitation this past weekend and saw the top hat he usually wore at the Roadhouse and his bike helmet both sitting on the edge of his casket as he lay there and I said a final goodbye.

Hot Takes from the Busy Month of May

Favorite grub this month: the GBLT Crepe from Rooster (on Washington in downtown St. Louis.) Goat cheese, bacon, tomato inside the crepe. A bit arugula on top. Clever combo—tasty!


Spectacular cake for my birthday! My wife got it from the Duck In Market in Valley Park. Which also has great burgers and fries. 


Went to a Friday Fish Fry in Milwaukee—walleye was delicious—at a place that closed mid-month due mainly to upcoming road construction. They had 27 (!) different fish choices on their menu.


Got a birthday BOGO coupon from First Watch and took a chance on Shrimp and Grits from the Town and Country location. Shrimp nicely seasoned and the grits were good, too! Yum.


Finally went to a Texas Roadhouse. The one we visited was full at 4:30 on a Wednesday. Why? Good food, good service and good value. Impressive.


Disappointment: A local St. Louis area breakfast/lunch standby has slipped. My sausage patties seemed to have been cooked earlier and microwaved. Rubbery texture. Also the joint had new menus again. Why? Higher prices. Ugh.


Another disappointment: Schlafly’s Non-Alcoholic Pale Ale. Try again, folks. Not good. I was a fan of their regular Pale Ale since back in the days when it was brewed in New Ulm, Minnesota for bottling. But the NA version… not cutting it for me.


One more disappointment: the Fiddlehead Coffee Shop we stopped at in suburban Milwaukee did not have the Orange Cocoanut Muffins we got at another of their locations last summer. They were so good that we brought some home for a neighbor last year.


Speaking of non-alcoholic brews, the IPAs from Athletic are tremendous. Run Wild and Free Wave. Good hoppy flavors. They are running national TV spots now—saw a couple during NBA playoffs.

Had a Sunshine State Tropical IPA NA brew at that fish fry place. From Go Brewing in Naperville IL. Loved it!


Speaking of national TV spots, is it just me or does the food on those Panera spots NOT look as appetizing as food on TV should look?

A YooHoo candy bar? Saw one at Ace Hardware. Didn’t buy it because it was huge. But someday I’ll give it a shot.

One more quick note: Lunched at the Casa de Tres Reyes in Des Peres. It was…. okay. Fish taco good. Brisket taco fair. Chips were great. Beans and rice sides ordinary. Probably won’t try again. Too many other Mexican joints to check out.

Pizza etc.

Some dining notes…

Had a really nice pizza a few weeks ago at Katie’s Pizza and Pasta in Town and Country. I enjoyed the Pesto Quattro Formaggi pizza. One of the best pizzas I’ve had in a while!

Not so delighted by the Butter Bird pizza I had at Pizzeoli in Soulard last month. It was okay, nothing special. But don’t take my word, the joint was JAMMED the night I went there. Didn’t care for no menus, just QR codes on the table. On the plus side they had Athletic NA beers for $5 a can.

Watched Chrissy and Dave Dine Out on Hulu this week. They went to a pizza joint in LA. The food looked great. And now I have pizza on my mind again.

The biggest restaurant item I’ve ordered in some time is the Sunrise Burrito at Billy G’s Finer Diner in Chesterfield. That sucker is huge. And here’s the thing… I ate it all in one sitting. When it arrived at the table I thought I’d cut in in half and take some home but once I got going, I barreled through. I appreciate the fact that they offer breakfast items all day.

Finally made it to Mac’s on Oakland Avenue in December. I got just a single patty on my burger but I didn’t need more. Great burger! Fries are good, too.

Possible bigger than the Sunrise Burrito was the Butternut Ricotta Stuffed Pasta at Cafe Hollander in Wauwatosa WI. “Butternut Parmesan sauce, brown butter, ricotta rolled manicotti, butternut hash, baby kale, crumbled goat cheese, toasted pecans and balsamic glaze.” Rich and wonderful. Had that one in December on a visit to the Milwaukee area.

You can possibly discover a good place to eat in your neighborhood from Google ratings of joints in your nearby area. That’s how I found out about the Duck In Market in Valley Park. Certainly not fancy but the food is good and not expensive. I’ve mainly had burgers and fries there.

Some 2023 Dining Highlights!

I did lots more restaurant eating this year since before the pandemic began! A few highlights:

Great smash burger at Firefly Grill in Chesterfield Valley in August! Also enjoyed burgers this year at Billy G’s Finer Diner in Chesterfield and at the Duck Inn Market in Valley Park. And at Mac’s Local Eats on Oakland Avenue. And a decent burger was enjoyed at Ruthie’s Family Restaurant in Rosebud MO.

Dined at the Harbor House in Milwaukee in June. Sometimes when you go to a place where the location—in this case right on Lake Michigan—is the main attraction, the food and service may not be up to par. Happy to report that the Harbor House experience was top-notch… had a gorgeous chunk of halibut!

My 2nd favorite out-of-town barbecue joint is Jim’n’Nick’s, a chain headquartered in Birmingham. Had wonderful brisket at their Gardendale AL restaurant in May. Generous portion—had leftovers the next day. And their mac’n’cheese is great, too. (Favorite non-STL BBQ is Saw’s Soul Kitchen in B’ham but didn’t make it to that part of town this year.)

Lunched at Katie’s Pizza and Pasta in Town & Country in July. Had their triangular shaped pasta with pesto sauce. Pretty good!

In April, celebrated my wife’s birthday at Annie Gunn’s and we got one of their “snugs”(private booths). Son and daughter joined us. Food and service were extraordinary. (We had lunched there in December 2022 and were happy to be back.)

Had a nice lunch at Carreta’s in Creve Coeur for my birthday. Looking forward to visiting their new location in Twin Oaks (West County) which has recently opened.

Favorite waffle of the year was at Silver Pancake House in Warson Woods. 

Went back to Busch for a Cardinals game. Had the spicy stir-fry with chicken in the Redbird Club. Tasty and plentiful! (That’s right, the best ballpark food I had this year was stir-fry. Probably should’ve had a brat when we went to the ballpark in Milwaukee.) Despite Waino serving up a homer to Pete Alonso—I yelled at Adam to walk him but did he listen? No!—leading to another Cardinals loss, it was good to be back at the ballpark.

Favorite breakfast of the year—maybe because we had to wait for a table on a busy Saturday and were just a mite hungry—was at Half and Half in Clayton. That place has the strongest coffee in town! Food’s good, too!

In October, after a fall foliage tram ride on the Katy Trail from Rocheport to McBaine and back, we had delicious gumbo at the New Orleans House of Gumbo in Boonville MO. Spicy!

Made a City Foundry visit back in February. Food good. A bit pricey at some of the vendors’ spots. I got an “ancient grains” bowl and grandson got a waffle. Haven’t made it back yet but looking forward to sampling more of the Foundry food. Happy to hear that a coffee spot has just opened there! (I did get to the nearby Alamo Drafthouse movie theater. Anxious to try their popcorn with churros.)

Not the biggest pizza fan but loved the Kosmic Karma pizza I got from Mellow Mushroom in Chesterfield in May.

Biggest disappointment of the year for me was a visit to Nudo House in Creve Coeur. Broth was good. The chunk of pork in my food was not delicious and hard to chew. But worst of all… the place was cold inside on a 35 degree day. The message I got was “eat your food and get out!” We did. Won’t be back.

Happy eating in 2024! Let’s hope everybody working in food and beverage in St. Louis has lots of success and fun in the new year!

—David Craig


Syrup on a Plane… Bad Idea

A timely post last week on the foodie blog Eater about carrying food and drink on airplanes reminded me of a big mess I was part of in the early 90s.

My wife had bought a can of sorghum syrup at a charity event for my dad who loved the stuff. I planned to carry it on my Southwest flight to Birmingham. A security guy at Lambert insisted on opening the can even though it was clearly labeled. After seeing what it was, he put the lid back on and tapped it shut. I carried it onto the plane and placed it under my seat.

A few minutes before landing in B’ham, I noticed that I could not move my feet. Because the can had tipped over and the syrup had leaked all over the floor and my sneakers were stuck in the sticky glop. It had even spilled out into the aisle.

The SWA attendants were cool and told me not to get upset, that they had seen worse. One of them mentioned a passenger who had once brought some spaghetti sauce on board and placed it in its container in the overhead bin. That problem was discovered when the red sauce began dripping down onto a passenger’s head.

I finally managed to get my shoes unstuck and took them off before deplaning. My dad was puzzled when he saw me step out of the jetway—this was back when you could walk out on the concourse to greet arriving passengers—carrying my shoes. When we got to the house, I finally got all the goo off my shoes and resolved never again to bring sticky stuff on an airplane.

Remembering St. Louis Mall Food

After reading an item in the weekend Wall Street Journal about the demise of shopping malls, I thought about mall food my family and I have enjoyed in St. Louis. Here are some of our favorites.

  1. Cardwell’s At The Plaza. Plaza Frontenac. A favorite during the 90s. Never had a bad meal here.
  2. Elephant Bar. West County Mall. Well, “mall adjacent.” Went there several times with kids, grandkids, in-laws, etc. Generally good experiences except occasionally when they were seriously slammed.
  3. Chevy’s. Crestwood Plaza. Fish tacos. Negra Modelo beer. Yum. Family friendly, to be sure. I remember we waited nearly two hours for a table there one Friday night in 1998.
  4. Casa Gallardo Grill. Galleria. Many great lunches and dinners here. Liked the tableside guacamole prep. Good times!
  5. Houlihan’s. West County Mall. (And other malls, too.) My wife loved their ‘Shrooms. 
  6. Dick Clark’s American Bandstand Grill. Northwest Plaza. Only went there once. With Cub Scouts and families after an outing at Bigfoot HQ. The food was good but the service was spectacular. Lots of people, separate checks and they got everything right. I had a chance to thank Dick himself a few months later during a radio interview.
  7. J. Gilbert’s. West County Mall. Hey, they’re still around! Had dinner there last week. Food and service are great but pricey.
  8. McCormick & Schmick’s. West County Mall. Huge seafood menu. I recall my mother-in-law going there and ordering oysters and being surprised that they were served raw not fried.  
  9. Pasta House Company. Crestwood Plaza. Had many a Pasta con Broccoli at this location. Their Galleria location did a good job as well.
  10. Breadco. Galleria. One of the better Breadcos in town. Waiting in a long line there during Christmas shopping season could seem interminable but led to major gratification when your food was ready. Also was a fan of the Breadco in the old version of West County Mall.

Let’s not forget the food courts. Auntie Anne’s, Sbarro, Chik-fil-A, among many others. Some of those places were pretty good!

—David Craig

Dealing With Inflation

It’s not going away soon. We all need to be careful about how we spend our food and beverage dollars and cents. Here are a few ideas for dealing with inflation.

  1. Indulge selectively. If you enjoy a Starbucks caramel macchiato, have one. Just not every day. Maybe every other day. If you want to dine out at a favorite restaurant, do it. Just maybe a bit less often. Instead of every week, maybe twice a month.
  2. Drink and eat less. Do you really need that second or third margarita or glass of wine or pint of beer? Do you really need EVERYTHING on that burger? Upgrade those French fries to onion rings or sweet potato fries? Nah.
  3. Try something different. Instead of that $30 seafood entrée (which may soon be a $32 entrée), go for the $24 pasta dish. Instead of that $65 bottle of wine, check out that $40 bottle that you may be curious about.
  4. Eat more fruit and veggies, less meat. Not that all veggies are cheap and not all meat is expensive, but careful choosing in the grocery store and in restaurants can stretch your budget and most likely provide you with a healthier diet.
  5. If you’re in a group, pay your fair share of the bill but only your fair share. Don’t always just split it down the middle. If you don’t drink and you’re with someone who has a couple or three cocktails, an even split just ain’t fair. Yes, this is nickels-and-dimes pettiness but nickels and dimes add up.
  6. Don’t give your restaurant server or the checkout clerk at the grocer a hard time about the prices. They are not the ones setting the prices. They are dealing with inflation challenges in their own lives.
  7. Similarly, don’t be chintzy with your tips. If your restaurant meal for two cost $80 in 2021, your 20% tip amount would be $16, right? If that meal costs $100 today, your tip amount goes up too, to $20. 
  8. Take note of the sales taxes being charged. If it’s 9% in your neck of the woods but 13.25% in other areas, that can add up over time. That money, remember, does not go to the restaurant owner or the grocer but to governments or taxing districts.
  9. Keep your eyes out for specials. Half price appetizers during happy hours. All you can eat specials on certain days of the week.
  10. Learn to love leftovers. Last night’s cold pizza, pasta, etc makes a pretty good lunch today. Just don’t warm up fish in the workplace microwave.
  11. Take note of shrinkflation. That’s where the price stays the same but the portion size shrinks. In some cases, it may be a deal breaker. In others, something you can live with.
  12. Eat at Taco Bell (or similar fast food joint) every now and then. You can get a filling lunch or late night snack cheap at many such places.

Coffee Talk

St. Louis’s City Foundry needs a coffee place. Got a decent mocha from the waffle joint but could not track down plain old coffee.

The strongest coffee this side of Cafe du Monde may be at Half and Half in Clayton. It’s good but damn strong.

Best restaurant coffee enjoyed lately was at Kingside in the CWE and Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield Valley. Both serve Dubuque Coffee which is not from Iowa but from Brentwood.

It seems less tacky for Starbucks to raise prices than for them to increase the number of stars required for rewards. Although raising prices as often as they do is a bit tacky.

Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz prefers his coffee black says a WSJ article about black coffee fans having long waits for their basic brew while baristas fill complex drink orders at Starbucks and Dunkin’.

Two of the best cups of coffee I’ve had in recent times were enjoyed last September and December in Milwaukee’s Historic Third Ward from the walk-up window at Onesto restaurant. (They just closed the walk-up window which they said was a pandemic thing.)

Although we have some excellent roasters here in town, I have been ordering dark roast whole beans lately from Vermont Artisan coffee. Quality products and quick order fulfillment. 

Highlights and Disappointments from Spring and Summer 2019

Highlight: The burger at P.J.’s Tavern in Kirkwood. Perfectly juicy with a nice slice of cheddar.

Highlight: My wife wanted Cunetto’s for her birthday. A spot we hadn’t visited since the 90s. Food was perfect and the service superb.

Disappointment: The cornbread I had at Grace Meat + 3 was not good. And they charge 2.50 for a 2″ X 2” chunk! They served it right on the tray—no plate. Not even a napkin. That’s lazy. Also, they should be embarrassed to charge 8.00 for a smallish and not very good banana pudding.

Highlight: Dinger’s Donuts at Busch Stadium. I tried ‘em at a Cardinals event for bloggers in 2016 and liked ‘em. The ones I had last week were even better: fresh and warm and delicious.

Highlight: The shrimp at the gulf coast. We went to a shrimp boil at our friends Alan and Donna’s place at Orange Beach, Alabama in April. Amazingly good! I had shrimp and grits at Felix’s Fish Camp in Mobile with friends Joe and Shirley and those shrimp were also several notches better than we get in St. Louis.

Disappointment: Speaking of shrimp, the ones we were served at Rosalita’s in Des Peres had that “previously cooked” flavor and texture. Were they leftovers? Don’t know, but they left much to be desired. Also the chicken breast was rubbery.

Highlight: The cinnamon roll at the IKEA snack bar right past the checkout area. Warm, moist with the right amount of cinnamon and icing. And just a buck!

Disappointment: Finally tried the Swedish meatballs at IKEA. Meh.

Highlight: Crazy Bowls and Wraps. Hadn’t been in years. Stopped in on a whim and got a pretty good meal.

Disappointment: The Chicken Tortilla Soup at Applebee’s in Bemidji, Minnesota. Lukewarm and horrible. I know, I know. We should’ve known better.

Highlight: Breakfast at Snooze in Westminster, Colorado. It’s a chain like First Watch that offers breakfast and lunch. They’re about to open their first KC store. Hope they make it to STL. Food and service were impressive.

Highlight: Pulled pork and ribs on July 4th from Dalie’s Smokehouse.

Highlight: Clam Chowder at 801 Fish in Clayton. Extraordinary! (Finally tried the place during Clayton Restaurant Week.)

More highlights than disappointments so, on balance, not a bad a few months!